Wednesday, July 30, 2014

Wheatland, Rock Ford and Herr House

Today we decided to go see all the sites we've been passing in our drives during our almost three weeks in Lancaster.  There's the Hans Herr House, Rock Ford Plantation, 15th President of U.S. James Buchanan's grave and home at Wheatland.

Our first stop was just a couple of miles away at the Hans Herr House, built in 1719,  Hans Herr House is the oldest home in Lancaster.  Built by the Mennonites, a church reform group begun in Switzerland and Germany.  To bring a full experience to visitors, three Pennsylvania German farmhouses, two barns, a blacksmith shop, a smokehouse, an outdoor bake oven and an extensive collection of farm equipment spanning 300 years have been brought to the original homestead..



During the European Reformation the Anabaptist, whom the Mennonites descend, opposed central church authority. There was constant disagreement about how the church functioned.  This resulted in many fractions of Mennonite churches.  In 1690, followers of Jacob Ammann split from the European Mennonites over differences about discipline and separation from the world.  They came to Pennsylvania and are now the Amish. So sharing a common faith based on the Anabaptist movement of the 1500's, the Amish and Mennonites live together having  a wide variety of lifestyle.

I'll tell you this plaster horse gave me a start.  A great Conestoga wagon in the barn.


This is the actual Hans Herr House built in 1719.  You have to pay to tour this house but all the other buildings are free to walk through.


Below is the blacksmith shop.


We walked the grounds and totally enjoyed the peace and quiet of birds chirping and the breeze blowing through the trees.  Leaving the Herr House we drove over to the Lancaster County Central Park.

This park is located inside the city limits and it is huge.  Located at the edge of the park is the home of Revolutionary War hero General Edward Hand. An M.D. from Ireland, he completed his medical training and enlisted with the 18th Royal Irish Regiment of Foot and was sent to Fort Pitt in America. He resigned in 1774 and came to Lancaster to practice medicine. In 1775 he joined the Congressional Army as Lt. Colonel.  He led troops at Boston, Long Island, White Plains and Trenton, and became Adjutant General to Washington in 1781.

When the war ended he entered politics as a Federalist.  Elected as Burgess of Lancaster. Later he served as U.S. House of Representatives and Pennsylvania's General Assembly.



On July 4, 1794 the General and his wife entertained George Washington.  This plantation was a working farm with barns, fields, livestock and orchards.  An avid horticulturist General Hand developed a variety of plum that bears his name.  The house is in amazing condition and remains as it was in the late 18th century.



Some pictures of the inside rooms.









Outside grounds.  A beautiful plantation.  Well worth the visit.


Leaving the Rock Ford Plantation we went on a true hunt for the grave of our 15th President, James Buchanan in Woodward Hill Cemetery in Lancaster.  After much searching and driving around and around we finally found it hidden in a beautiful alcove of trees.




He is also a veteran of the War of 1812.




Now we pointed our car towards Wheatland which is basically part of Lancaster.  The Historical Society has a nice modern museum devoted to James Buchanan.



Inside, a small statute of James Buchanan in his later years.




His home is beautiful and restored to what it was during the time he lived there.



Buchanan is the only president to be born in Pennsylvania, the only bachelor and the last president born in the 18th century.

He accepted an 1856 nomination but only on the condition he would served only one term.

Abraham Lincoln was elected as our 16th President, inheriting many unresolved issues from Buchanan's term.

The two more significant issues was that of slavery and secession of the states from the union.  A former Constitutional attorney he was a strict interpreter and enforcer of the "law". When pressured for action on either of these issues of slavery's legality or a states right to secede he would only say it doesn't say in the Constitution that they can't. He ultimately decided to let each state make their own decision.  Of course this was like asking two 3-year-old  kids to come to an agreement that's fair for all..

We know the  outcome of that one.  It got dumped in Lincoln's lap and he paid the ultimate price to resolve it.
Okay, back to James.  As a bachelor he was conveniently jilted by the only "love of his life" when upon her mystery death/suicide, he vowed to never marry.  It is believed that the abrupt end to his hetero relationship helped to deflect interest in his sexuality and bachelorhood.  There is much speculation on his live in relationship with William Rufus King, who served as Vice President under Franklin Pierce, our 14th President.

Buchanan and King lived together for 10 years in a boardinghouse from 1834 to 1844 when King left for France.  King referred to their relationship as "communion".  Okay enough of that.


 As the eldest of 11 children his mother instilled in him a strong duty to his family.  When he bought the house in Wheatland in 1848 some members of his family were already living with him.  A niece, Harriet Lane, daughter of his sister Ann Buchanan Lane.  Buchanan was appointed guardian of Harriet when she was orphaned at age 11 following the death of her mother and father.  When Buchanan was elected President, Harriet moved to the White House with him and became the "First Lady".  They weren't sure what to call her so that was the first time the term "First Lady" was ever used.


Also living with Buchanan was a nephew, James Buchanan "Buck" Henry.  He became a ward of James Buchanan at the age of 7 when his parents died, Harriet Buchanan Henry and Rev. Henry.


His nephew's bedroom when he was home.


One last person to live with James Buchanan was his housekeeper Ester Parker.

Entry hall from the back of the house.


Our tour guide Lynn.  In Buchanan's den.  The desk to her left was a gift from India and was used during his term at the White House.


His niece wanted to learn to play the piano so he bought her this one and she actually became an accomplished pianist.


A better picture of the desk.


Here's an interesting piece of interesting information.  Is this a coincidence or what?  This mirror that hangs in the hallway of his home has 31 stars.  At the time he served as President there were only 31 states.


This was Harriet's bedroom and the linens she used on the bed are still there.  You can see her monogram on the pillow covers.



Harriet Lane married at the age of 36 to a Baltimore banker named Henry Elliot Johnston.  Within 4 years they had two son.  Both died within a year of each other of rheumatic fever.  Her husband died two years later.  So in 18 years she lost her Uncle James Buchanan, her husband and both her sons.  Three Coast Guard Cutters have been named in her honor.  Below is the memorial portrait of her two sons.


I can't believe I didn't take a picture of James Buchanan's bedroom but I can tell you it's exactly like this old drawing, but in color.


His handwriting.  Actually very pretty for a man.


The is the bedroom of Esther Parker.  Esther "Miss Hetty" Parker with James Buchanan from 1834 until his death in 1868.  She was disliked by Harriet Lane and the President sent her back to Wheatland for the duration of his term.  Esther stayed loyal to James Buchanan and even when Confederate troops approached Buchanan's home on their way to Gettysburg she stayed with him.

This bedroom was often used as a sick room, because of it's closeness to the almost bathroom.  There was never indoor plumbing installed in this house.


The cooking kitchen was actually in the basement.  This room off the dining rooms was called a warming kitcchen.  Notice the "dumb waiter".


We stepped out of the warming kitchen and the 18th century and back into our time.  What a pretty reminder that some things know no time.  Wine, grapes...


This outhouse is a five seater and is the only bathroom for the house.


And so we had just completed a whirlwind tour of Lancaster before we depart to Hershey TT on Sunday.  Thank you for coming along on our travel back in time.  Come back soon.

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